One show, two cities
If somewhat belatedly, I’ll touch on the subject of the mega-event that was Argentine über-rock band Soda Stereo’s recent tour, after a ten-year hiatus. It is a well-known fact that any thirty-something who (such as I) grew in South America, especially below the Equator, has Soda running through his veins. And no, I was not one of those new wave types who listened to The Cure with the latest A Flock of Seagulls ‘do, and/or a look reminiscent of Los Abuelos de la Nada. None of that! I was a (no less pitiful) metal maniac with totally unkempt long hair and hundreds of t-shirts with bones on them, as thrash fashions went back then. But I digress…
Despite this apparent incompatibility in tastes during the eighties and much of the nineties, Soda was an undeniably important part of the soundtrack to my earlier years. Either at the teenage dance parties, on the radio, or at the homes of (more-conventional-than-oneself) friends, the early Soda’s simple but catchy tunes evoke memories of stereotypically better times. Their later productions, somewhat more sophisticated, lend themselves to repeated listening without becoming boring.
It was so that, while in Buenos Aires last june, I saw the billboard for Cerati-and-friends’ new tour, before it was announced in my own hometown, and decided to ipso facto organize a trip with my buddies of yesteryear, and, tix in hand, we went to the tour’s third date on November 3 at the River Plate stadium in Buenos Aires.
I won’t review the show (much less “critique” it, more so for my dislike of the negative connotations implied in the word, more often than not taken to heart by many a mediocre critic), but rather comment on how the city of Buenos Aires behaved that night… later moving on to Lima. (For an excellent and thorough review, in English, go to the Play blog).
In a city like BA, an event of this magnitude goes unnoticed. Seventy thousand souls in River’s cancha, yet, if wander more than a few blocks away from the venue and you won’t even know what’s going on. Access to the stadium was very decent (one could ride a cab up to very close to the front gate), and access to within the stadium itself was orderly and quick.
However, where the locals’ civility shone brightest was at the concession stands inside the venue: everyone respectfully formed orderly lines to buy panchos (hot dogs), patties (burgers), remeras (t-shirts) and other paraphernalia. I inadvertently flaunted my –so sadly Limean– disrespectfulness while attempting to purchase a t-shirt and walking directly to the front of the line (whose existence I hadn’t imagined), and detecting the incredulous stares of at least one porteño I walk-of-shamed my ass to the back of the line.
During the show, whose goers, I was pleased to note, seemed on average younger than thirty, and remained mostly within their designated seats, having a great time and not disturbing anyone… except on the seatless floor, where the crowd was going wild with astounding energy, a display we chose to observe from the comfort of our seats.
The orderliness, both in the event’s organization as among the spectators, in an event of that magnitude, was a refreshing change from past experiences in less civilized cities.
The show impressed me so that no sooner had I arrived in Lima that I bought tickets to see them again at the Estadio Nacional, this time from the floor (which had been comfortably broken into sections by the organizers to avoid a mobbing, ideal for my six-months-pregnant wife). I feared, however, that getting to, entering, and watching the show would be a nightmare.
Lima did well in proving that my prejudices against my dear city were completely unwarranted. The event’s production was impeccable. Access to the stadium was clearly labeled, well organized and with no lines. The sound system was excellent (except, on the second date, which I attended, when the PA system lost power in the middle of Texturas, the show’s fourth song, the band remaining quiet for a seemingly interminable ten minutes which made us all think we were doomed). In Lima we were lucky enough to hear Signos, which in BA, along with Tratame Suavemente were left out of the November 3 date (yet not from the October 23 show reviewed in the link above).
In both cases, an event of epic proportions. I relived all my kitschy eighties memories: the prom, New Year’s parties in Lapa Lapa (a beach I frequented about 67 km south of Lima); and others from the following decade: drinks at La Democracia in Barranco, etc. Exhilarating. If they played Lima again tomorrow, I’d be there for sure.
My only wish is that they do another reunion tour in another ten years to show my kids what real rock en español is all about.
Technorati Tags:
Argentina, Art, Buenos Aires, Estadio Nacional, Lifestyles, Lima, Peru, River Plate, Rock, Show, Soda Stereo, Travel
Este artículo está disponible en castellano. Haga click aquí.
Filed under: Art, Lifestyles, Travel | 1 Comment »
Love (NY?)
The cool thing about strolling about civilized cities is that one never ceases to stumble upon interesting objets d’art. Recently, somewhere in the Upper West, I caught this sculpture on a corner.
It is neither beautiful nor technically complex, yet it delivers. I doubt that anyone, upon seeing the sculpture for the first time, was not hit by the warm-and-fuzzies. The artist clearly achieved what (IMHO) he had in mind when he conceptualized the piece.
Technorati Tags:
Travel, Art, Architecture, New York
Este artículo está disponible en castellano. Haga click aquí.
Filed under: Architecture, Art, Travel | No Comments »
Andean Cosmo: Cuzco
[Editor's note: Let's forget for a second that I haven't a clue how to correctly spell Cuzco, if with an s or a z. I'll stick to the z if only for consistency.]
Those of us who live in Peru, and especially in Lima, find ourselves immersed in a society with tastes and habits that are surprisingly homogeneous. This is true across districts, quarters, and economic and generational strata. I’ll concede that while some use True Religion jeans (and not because of their beliefs) and others prefer local brands, in general terms, we all listen to the same music (yes, reggaeton is danced just the same in Comas and La Molina), dress more or less alike, watch the same movies, eat the same food and complain about the same things. This homogeneity give urman beings a sense of calm and belonging (or “nAffil”, the basic need for affiliation according to David McClelland), that compensates the inevitable boredom from lack of variety. If you do/act/dress in the standard ways allowed by your city, you’ll be accepted. Escape the norm by an inch, and brace yourself for countless hardships to befall your soul!
It is thus that being able to escape to a nearby place like Cuzco becomes so amazingly refreshing. Having the option to leave the normalcy of the capital, in a flight no longer than 50 minutes, and arrive in a parallel universe filled with foreign tongues, bars and restaurants that are much more interesting and creative (in style and cuisine) than many in Lima (see recent note on the Cuzco lemonades, and don’t doubt for a second that I am a huge fan of Lima cuisine!), and significantly more cosmo than the capital itself (and not to mention one of the top cultural destinations in the world) is a luxury that not many countries can afford.
The best part is that this ‘luxury’ does not come at a high price. Cuzco offers decent lodging options for the most miserly mochileros (backpackers) all the way up to the most spoiled gringo. Cuzco is cosmo in the purest sense of the world: international and open to all. Insuperable cuisine (I recommend especially La Cicciolina, Jack’s and Incanto), lounge bars that would make Lima proud (Los Perros, Green’s, Fallen Angel and the sadly departed Blueberry Lounge), night clubs that I dare not suggest because frankly I’ve been out of that circuit for way too long, and, further cementing the town’s cosmo-ness, a remarkably full embrace of the gay community.
According to Webster’s:
cosmopolitan <ˌkäzməˈpälitn>, adj.:
• familiar with and at ease in many different countries and cultures : his knowledge of French, Italian, and Spanish made him genuinely cosmopolitan.
• including people from many different countries : immigration transformed the city into a cosmopolitan metropolis.
• having an exciting and glamorous character associated with travel and a mixture of cultures : their designs became a byword for cosmopolitan chic.
For anyone who is able to visit, Cuzco has much more to offer than ruins (including the recently-named Wonder of the World). It is a small city but one that has matured nicely and created its own identity as an international destination, untethered from Lima, and setting itself apart from many a horrendous provincial town, like those which unfortunately abound in Latin America.
Technorati Tags:
Travel, Peru, Cuzco, Lifestyles
Este artículo está disponible en castellano. Haga click aquí.
Filed under: Lifestyles, Travel | No Comments »
Urman Spaces
Certain cities, regardless of how caotic they may be, have spaces within their dishevelment to afford their humans an escape to tranquility. Often, these spaces are to be found in between buildings, or in spaces “donated” by a development to the public good. Most civilized indeed.
In larger cities these spaces become a necessity. London has its hundreds of parks and squares. NYC does too, in its fantastic Central Park and its several mini-plazas all over town (especially in Midtown, where the developments, generally more modern than elsewhere in the city, have provided such spaces). There is one public space that is unique in that it has an original segment (of some 5m/16ft in length) of the Berlin Wall, complete with original graffiti, which at the very least represents a conversation piece for its visitors.
Most of Latin America is notoriously lacking in these spaces. Inorganic and disorganized growth of the vast majority of its cities have not allowed their appearance. Those that have appeared under the auspices of local governments have become emporia for informal ambulatory commerce, displays neo-folklore performance, petty crime and other undesirables.
Where they can be found, they are few and far between, and underutilized by a population that does not fully understand them, and does not feel at ease in them. With a few notable exceptions (Buenos Aires comes to mind), the lack of culture and/or civility converts them in places that are, at best, unattractive for spending a lazy afternoon.
Just a matter of time, one would hope.
Technorati Tags:
Architecture, Lifestyles, Travel
Este artículo está disponible en castellano. Haga click aquí.
Filed under: Architecture, Lifestyles, Travel | No Comments »
Lemonade: that cool, refreshing, minty drink
I fell obliged to share with the world a very well-kept secret. Those guys in Cuzco have advanced lemonade technology to a degree never before seen. And urmans need this information to recover from their hectic lives.
Cuzqueños, presumably due to the dearth of distractions found in bigger cities, have achieved a product that is without defect. With the ideal level of sourness, a subtle, noticeable but not overbearing touch of bitter, perfectly cold temperature (served in large glasses with copious amounts of ice), absolute “refreshingness” (to use the anglicized version of a despicable-but-useful term from Sony Entertainment Television, that bastion -unknown to the US- of Latino-Venezuelan commercial pop culture), and total satisfaction of both thirst and whatever other desires that may befall the consumer.
Without being a chef, I think I’ve hit the formula:
- Peruvian limón (duh), in abundance to ensure tartness (these are most similar to the key limes known to our US audience);
- water (double-duh);
- gum arabic (moderately applied so as to not taste like those watered-down sweet concoctions that many Lima restaurants call limonada);
- peppermint (or what we call hierba buena);
- peel of the aforementioned limón, but just a tad so as to provide a hint of bitterness without totally screwing up the product.
Blend everything, serve over ice and attempt to contain your excitement.
Particularly suggested are those served at La Cicciolina and Los Perros (the latter pictured).
…and let’s hope that this know how never leaves Cuzco.
Technorati Tags:
Cuzco, Lifestyles, Peru, Travel
Este artículo está disponible en castellano. Haga click aquí.
Filed under: Cuisine, Lifestyles, Travel | No Comments »
Growing cities: Shanghai (上海)
Part 1
Shanghai is one of those cities that leaves you breathless. It is not an easy one to define.
Modern? Yes.
Decadent? Uh-huh.
Occidental? Yup.
Typically chinese? Indeed.
The vibe that one feels on the streets is much more intense than that of other mega-cities like New York or London, which have had decades (if not centuries) to “settle down” and have acquired a defined style. Shanghai, on the other hand, is adolescent.
Walking the streets (particularly Nanjing Road from the Bund -on the shores of the Huangpu- inwards) one perceives, among the most impressively modern highrises, glimpses of traditional China (transport tricycles, street vendors, the occasional beggar -although there’s fewer every year) living right alongside modern China. The West and the Orient most perfectly and harmoniously intertwined.
Pudong Airport is among the most moder I’ve visited. One gets to it from the city in a magnetically-levitated train (meaning, no wheels!) that travels at 431 km/h (270 mph). Not far from it, though, there’s a bird and flower market that sells live crickets as pets.
The cacophony of modernity and tradition finds a likeable balance in Shanghai. It is never so modern to become overly trendy, nor so traditional to be boring. The brew of people from all walks of life (arabs, chinese, euros, japanese, americans) adds to the experience. The vibe is intense even during the daytime hours.
At night, the city shows yet another face. The Pudong skyline, without pretending to be the (clearly superior) one in Hong Kong, lights up impressively. No fewer than two buildings have “big screens” built into their structures that span their whole height (and we’re talking fifty stories and up here). TV-boats on the Huangpu show high-resolution advertisements for the city to see.
The buildings from the city’s colonial era, on one side of the river light up, contrasting, or better yet, complementing the futurism of the opposing bank.
Restaurants, bars, discotheques all over, a good number of these quite good. There’s hangouts for expats (to be expected as they abound), locals, etc., but in general everyone is welcome everywhere.
—More coming in Part 2 (soon)
Technorati Tags:
Architecture, Lifestyles, Travel, China, Shanghai
Este artículo está disponible en castellano. Haga click aquí.
Filed under: Architecture, Lifestyles, Travel | No Comments »